![]() ![]() In my garage, and got into a whole lot of trouble. ![]() Perhaps somebody sees this answer, as an alternative to Tapcon. I used to use compressed air to blow out the hole before I had an impact driver and sometimes used lube, but since I acquired one I've never had to. ![]() If at any time it feels like or if you think for one moment that you won't be able to fully sink the screw, stop and take it out before you strip the head, because once you do you're screwed.Repeat as necessary, and avoid over reaming before you've tried it again. Use hex-head whenever possible, as the Philips type require a hardened #2 bit or you'll break bits left and right.Īssuming you lack an impact driver, and the screw does get stuck half way out, remove the screw (and throw it away if it's a damaged Philips head) and then do ream the sides of the hole a few times and try again. After you drive your ~100th Tapcon, you won't need to do this step, and will seldom snap the heads off the fastener anymore because you were overzealous with the impact gun. If it doesn't feel right or is still not snug, finish tightening it with a socket wrench. Drill the hole with a 3/16" masonry drill bit with a hammer drill, one inch farther than the fastener is long, pulling the bit out of the hole several times as you go to clear the spoils, being careful not to ream the sides as you do.ĭrive the screw with an impact gun, and stop half a second after you hear a change in pitch, which is when it's bottomed out. Use 1/4" diameter Tapcons (the 3/16" screws are worthless). It has worked like a charm while setting wood plates using 2 1/2" screws, it draws the flathead screw below the surface of the plate, showing me it is holding well. ![]() My logic is concrete does not like vibration, and any vibration will damage what threads are cut into the concrete and not give the screws the ultimate holding power. Which has happened when driving them in too far. I have a 1/2" variable speed drill that will power them in all the way or break them off. To go in deeper since i had the wrong length screw to make do, I drill the shank size to a depth, then the thread size to get the recommended hold into the concrete.Īs a rule, I do not use an impact or hammer drill to run the screw in. The specs that I seen for the most part say the screw is rated to go in between 3/4" to 1" max for the rated hold. They work OK as big blue overpriced wood screws ^) which will let me use up the boxes.Īll the Tapcons, Conserts, or other brand of concrete screws I have driven over the years, I have never, while following the directions driven a concrete screw no deeper into any concrete that has been well aged over an 1 1/4" in. Our local aggregate tends towards hard rocks, not crushed limestone. Since this is a vertical-down hole, you might try vacuuming it out before driving the Tapcon. You can switch to driving them with a ratchet, but you may find that the threads shear off, or the entire shaft shears. Sometimes the threads shear right off (bit of hard aggregate they can't cut into?) Aside from not using hammer mode, as suggested in the comments, I will report that I have had HIGHLY variable results with Tapcon's in old poured concrete - I don't recall what they claim to work in, but I begin to suspect that concrete block or green (not yet fully cured) poured concrete is more their cup of tea, or perhaps "concrete made only with "soft" rocks for aggregate." Some work as they should, some stick partway in, some go all the way in and don't hold I think it's luck of the draw on what the concrete right at that particular hole consists of. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |